January 1, 2008

The Many Faces of Ubud

There is an endless choice of accommodations in Ubud, most of very good value. You can start with simple, US$-a-night bungalows at the back of family compounds, and climb up the price­ range to hedonistic hotels and spas at US$100-a-night - or much more.


Many families offer a few rooms in their compounds in
Central and Northern Ubud, along the streets branching out south of the main road (JI. Gotama, Hanoman, and Jenbawa), or north of the main road (on jl. Kajeng, Sriwedari, and surrounds). Here, budget trav­elers may find a vivid community life hidden behind a maze of shops and restaurants where health food com­petes with Balinese warungs and trendy cafes.

There is a high density of guest houses and resorts in Southern Ubud, especially along Monkey Forest Road. This once-quiet lane leading through rice paddies to a tiny sacred forest has turned into a tourist bazaar, where “zen” shops can be found side-by-side with more terrestrial outlets. Travelers looking for peace and good view will have to push to the southeast end of Monkey Forest Road, or to the end of Hanoman Street in Pengosekan, a 20-minute walk from Central Ubud. Also in Southern Ubud, but with no direct road access to the centre of town, the lovely hamlet of Nyuhkuning is a perfect haven of peace

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